Like Burma, I’m going to split my trip to Ethiopia in several posts.
If you are not familiar with the Danakil depression, I have included a Google map of the area below. It’s in the northeast region of Ethiopia, in the semi-autonomous zone called the Afar region.
The Afar region is named after the Afar tribe that administers the region. However the Afar tribe is split between Eritrea and Ethiopia, causing people to cross between the two countries relatively easily, despite the border with Eritrea being technically closed (Ethiopia and Eritrea were at war in 2000). As you may know, Eritrea is not a safe place. This region is relatively high risk for foreign travelers, as stated by the UN, which recommend not to travel there.
Traveling there is a long journey. It took us almost 48 hours to get from Paris to our first night with a bed.
We flew from Addis to Mek’ele and then drove for several hours to the Danakil region.
The Danakil depression is 125m below sea-level (-400ft) and Wikipedia defines it as: “The Danakil Depression is among the hottest place on earth in terms of year-round average temperatures. It is also one of the lowest places on the planet, and there is no rain for most of the year.” But the first night we got there, we got RAIN !!
This area is also known as the cradle of humanity, because Lucy (the oldest human-like skeleton) was found here. The attraction for us was the sulfur lakes and formations known as the Dallol sulfur springs.
Dallol
Dallol currently holds the official record for record high average temperatures for an inhabited location on Earth, where an average annual temperature of 35°C (96°F) was recorded between the years 1960 and 1966. Dallol is also one of the most remote places on Earth, although paved roads to the village of Hamedela, which is close, are being built. Still, the most important mode of transport besides jeeps are the camel caravans which travel to the area to collect salt.
The Dallol sulfur springs are presented on the pictures as some large ponds of yellow sulfuric acid and green acid lakes. However in the last couple years, the area and most importantly the sulfur run-offs have decreased in volume. The ponds are now completely dry and while the cause can’t be determined (it could be a natural variation of the volcano structure), some suggest that the current water pumping by humans have affected the site.
Sulfur springs (Dallol, Ethiopia)
Mini-geyser in the Dallol sulfur springs formation.
Sulfuric acid runoff in the Danakil depression in Ethiopia.
My friend Stephane taking pictures of the sulfur hot springs in Ethiopia.
Close-up of the sulfur formation.
Egg shell type formation in Ethiopia’s Dallol.
Left over the acid pond that have dried recently in the Dallol.
A rare pond with still liquid left. Dallol, Danakil depression, Afar Region.
Stephane near an hot spring acid lake.
Military guard near an acid lake in the Danakil depression in Ethiopia.
You have seen that we had gas masks to approach any active volcanic site. Even with the sun and temperature, it’s highly recommended to have them. At any time, a stronger than normal discharge of sulfur gas can happen and can be very dangerous to your health.
Salt caravans
The Danakil is known for its salt exploitation dating centuries. There are several kilometers of salt in this desert, the exploitation has not changed since the dawn of humanity. Afar workers extract the salt and cut it in 10 kg (22 pounds) plates that are loaded onto camel caravans and then carry across the desert to the nearby river (around 50km away). Now the salt caravans go a little further to the highway where the salt is loaded onto trucks.The salt extracted here is used for livestock, not for human consumption. Like I said, the salt economy in this portion of Ethiopia has been done this way for centuries but it’s probably the last couple years. The Ethiopian government is extending the highway to this region and when the highway is complete, there will be no need for the camel caravans and probably for the salt workers. It’s very likely that mechanization will take over. I have known for a while that the days where numbered if I wanted to see the salt caravans.
Salt caravan in the Danakil desert (Ethiopia)
Panorama of the Danakil desert
Ethiopian soldier watching a camel caravan
Camels and donkeys carrying salt in Ethiopia.
Sun beams in the Danakil desert
Extracting the salt
The Danakil desert is part of the Afar region, the Afar tribe is controlling the trade of salt. Only Afar members can be cut the salt in 10Kg plates. The hard job of breaking the salt crust is done by the Eritreans. The salt caravans are paying for the salt to the Afar local leader that redistributes the money at the end of each day. Even the best paid Afar members make a couple dollars a day for working from sunrise to the moment the caravan leaves. Don’t forget that this region currently holds the official record for record high average temperature for an inhabited location on Earth, where an average annual temperature of 35°C (96°F) was recorded between the years 1960 and 1966. Yes that’s an average annual temperature!
Those images reminded me of Henri Cartier-Bresson’s images of the Paris workers in 1930.
Breaking the salt crush at midday.
Carving salt plates of 10Kg for a couple dollars a day.
Loading the salt plates evenly on each camel.
All the images presented here are available for licensing or as fine art prints.